The Ultimate Guide to 4C Hair Care and Styling for Men

Different textures and types of hair require their own methods for care—and knowing what type you have is the first step in creating a system that’ll work for you. That’s where the widely accepted Andre Walker Hair Typing System can help. Created by Andre Walker—a celebrity hairstylist to the likes of Oprah Winfrey and Halle Berry, among others—the system separates hair into four main categories based on texture and curl pattern: straight, wavy, curly, and coily. From there, the system uses additional three subcategories of A, B, and C to indicate curl tightness. 4C hair, the tightest curl pattern in the Type 4 category, is known for its dense, coily texture and the unique styling needs required to maintain it. 

Here, learn more about men’s 4C hair, as defined by Walker’s system. Then get tips from Black hair specialists and men who have 4C hair themselves.

4C hair is the tightest curl pattern in the Type 4 category. It’s characterized by tight, dense coils that may not form a defined curl pattern without being styled. “4C hair does not reflect light as well as more loosely curled patterns,” says Zoey Taylor, a Black hair specialist at hair and care brand CurlsQueen, of factors contributing to 4C hair’s texture. “The hair might appear somewhat undefined on its own, unless it’s styled or products like setting lotion are applied.” Since it is so responsive to styling, though, 4C hair is among the most versatile types, lending itself to various style options.

4C hair is one of the most fragile hair types because its tight zig-zag curls (or Z pattern curls) are prone to breakage and tangling. After all, it’s easier to break something that has a sharp bend in it than something with a softer curve. The type of hair also tends to be prone to shrinkage; when dry, 4C hair can shrink by up to 75 percent of its actual length. 

Type 4 hair is coily or very curly hair, and it’s broken down into three distinct categories: 4A, 4B, and 4C.If you’re just getting familiar with your hair type, it may be helpful to understand the differences between the three.

• 4A Hair for Men: Loosely coiled with tight S-shaped ringlets that are about the diameter of a pen or chopstick; it tends to be very voluminous

• 4B Hair for Men: Categorized by densely packed Z-shaped coils that are about the width of a pencil

• 4C Hair Men: Tightly coiled strands that may not have an obvious curl pattern

Curious about how to care for 4C hair? Read on for our top tips from hair experts.

Moisturize Regularly

4C hair tends to be low porosity, which means it doesn’t readily absorb moisture from the environment and may feel dry as a result. Hair with low porosity has a hair cuticle (the outermost layer of the hair) that is very tight or overlapping, making it difficult for water and moisture to penetrate through. The opposite of low porosity is high porosity, which means the hair absorbs moisture more easily.

For this reason, “moisturizing is important for styling 4C hair, [which] tends to be drier than any other texture,” Taylor says. “4C hair needs a lot of moisture and tender handling to avoid breakage.” She adds that regularly doing a deep conditioning treatment and using leave-in conditioner products are excellent ways to keep 4C hair soft and manageable.

Choose Hair Care Products With Your Hair Type In Mind

Because it needs moisture, 4C hair can handle thicker, richer products like hair butters made with jojoba, shea butter, or hair oils. We talked to eight men with 4C hair, and several mentioned using the LOC method (Leave-in, Oil, Cream) to lock in moisture.

“The best products for styling 4C hair are setting foams and styling gels,” says Darrius Peace, salon owner, master barber, and natural care expert at Hayah Beauty in Birmingham, Alabama. “These products help exaggerate the tight curl patterns, offering individuals a more modern and sophisticated look.”

Detangle Gently

Because 4C hair is prone to breakage, practicing TLC while detangling is key. “Always ensure to detangle the hair gently,” Taylor says, adding that it’s best to do this when hair is wet and has conditioner in it (before rinsing). She suggests using a wide-tooth comb or even your fingers to minimize excessive shedding. 

Embrace Shrinkage

Several of the men with 4C hair with whom we spoke cited shrinkage as a top challenge for styling 4C hair. Shrinkage refers to hair shrinking down and looking shorter as it dries.

There’s not a ton you can do to prevent shrinkage, and if your goal is length, that reality may feel frustrating. To combat shrinkage, many people with 4C hair use heat styling, tight braiding, or excessive manipulation, but those methods can cause breakage, dryness, and loss of curl definition. 

Also, Taylor says shrinkage is actually a sign that your curls are healthy: “Shrinkage is a sign of healthy and moisturized hair,” she says. “Coils contract when they have enough moisture, just like a well-watered plant. Instead of fighting it, try low-manipulation styles like twist-outs, braid-outs, or wash-and-go’s. These help maintain the hair’s integrity while still giving you style options. By accepting the natural shrinkage of 4C hair, you allow your strands to maintain their elasticity and retain moisture better, which ultimately strengthens the hair.”

Protect Your Hair While You Sleep

Sleeping in a satin head wrap and using a silk or satin pillowcase helps protect 4C hair while you sleep. “Individuals with 4C hair should cover their hair at night with a satin bonnet or by sleeping on a satin pillowcase,” says Peace. “This helps reduce any fabric friction that could dehydrate the strands or create unnecessary shedding.” 

Use the Right Shampoo & Conditioner For You

As we’ve mentioned, 4C hair needs moisture, and your shampoo can help.  Look for shampoos and conditioners that are labeled as moisturizing, hydrating, or lubricating. 4C hair also benefits from deep conditioning treatments. Sulfate-free shampoos can also cleanse without stripping 4C hair of the natural oils it needs.

Avoid Excessive Heat Styling

“Heat styling on 4C hair should be done minimally,” says Peace. “Excessive amounts of heat treatments can result in a loss of curl pattern and create an inconsistent texture, [which] can result in more tedious styling.”

If you decide to heat style your hair, use a heat protectant spray or cream and keep the temperature medium or low.

Be Mindful Of Your Water Type

Hard water has minerals in it that can build up on hair, making it feel dry. As previously mentioned, 4C hair often has trouble retaining moisture, and an added mineral barrier can make things even more difficult. 

“I've found that the type of water that my hair comes in contact with can affect how soft or dry it feels,” says Andrew S., who has 4C hair. Another man we spoke with mentioned that filtered shower heads have helped his hair look its best.

One of the best things about 4C hair is that it lends itself well to many styles. “What I love most about 4C hair is its versatility. This type of hair can be styled into different shapes and styles, from afros and twist-outs to braids and locs,” Taylor says.

Below, you’ll find a few popular styles for men with 4C hair, according to the experts we interviewed: 

• Dreadlocks: Two of the men with 4C hair we spoke to mention having locs or micro locs, both of which can be lower-maintenance hairstyles. Locs can be a good way to show off volume and natural texture.

• Afro: Another good option for highlighting the volume and texture of 4C hair is an afro. Afro-textured hair requires shaping and regular moisture, but day-to-day maintenance can be reasonable.

• Protective styles: "Protective styles—such as twists, braids, or Bantu knots—are very good options since they help to retain moisture, cut back on breakage, and give new angles,” Taylor says. If you wear tight braids or corn rows, try to give your hair a break sometimes, as tight hairstyles can cause a type of hair loss known as traction alopecia, which is caused by repeatedly pulling on the root.

• Low-fade: Three of the men we spoke to mentioned having this type of fade, where the tapering starts lower on the head, typically just above the ears. It naturally transitions from longer hair on top to shorter hair near the neckline. The style works well for 4C hair because it’s long enough for curls to retain shape, but still relatively low-maintenance.

“4C hair is beautiful naturally,” Taylor says. “For ages, society dictated that one should conform to Eurocentric beauty standards, but thankfully, nowadays, an increasing number of people are learning to accept and appreciate tightly coiled hair for its uniqueness. Healthy and happy 4C hair is all about knowing what works for your specific texture, giving it time, and embracing its beauty.”

Here are a few considerations to keep in mind about 4C hair:

• 4C hair thrives with proper moisture and gentle handling. Regular deep conditioning, using hydrating products, and sticking with protective styles help it to maintain health and prevent breakage.

• Embracing shrinkage and natural texture is key. While shrinkage can be frustrating, it’s a sign of healthy, well-moisturized hair. Low-manipulation styles can help balance definition while retaining length.

• The right care routine enhances versatility. From afros and locs to fades and twists, 4C hair is versatile, with numerous styling possibilities available, depending on your wants and needs.

For more on caring for Black men’s hair, check out our guides to the causes of receding hairlines in Black males and hair growth for Black men.

Experts:

• Darrius Peace, salon owner, master barber, and natural care expert at Hayah Beauty in Birmingham, Alabama

• Zoey Taylor, Black hair specialist at CurlsQueen, a human hair clip-in extension retailer