What Affects Hair Growth for Black Men? Causes & Growth Tips

Whether you’re trying to grow out your hair or think  you may be noticing the early signs of balding, you may be wondering what factors affect hair growth for Black men. Male pattern baldness is not as common in Black men compared to other groups, but it can still be a concern and hinder the hair growth cycle. There are other reasons for stunted hair growth that are more common in Black men with curly or coily hair, which tends to be more susceptible to breakage and requires proper care.

In this article, we’ll dive into what affects hair growth for Black men, plus offer tips for growing Black hair and preventing hair loss.

There are several common causes of hair loss in Black men. In some cases, impeded hair growth for Black men is due to genetics, while for others, early signs of balding are the result of tight hairstyles or excess breakage, among other potential causes.

Male Pattern Baldness

Male pattern baldness is a type of hair loss caused by a genetic sensitivity to the male hormone dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a byproduct of testosterone.

DHT binds to receptors in hair follicles, causing the follicle to become smaller (also known as hair miniaturization). Over time, this decrease in diameter causes hair to become thinner and weaker until it eventually falls out. DHT can also shorten the hair growth cycle's anagen (growth) phase, so hair has less time to gain length.

Balding is less common in Black men compared to white men though. A 2022 study found that Black men were four times more likely to have little or no balding. However, male pattern baldness can and does affect Black men, just at lower rates than white men.

Traction Alopecia

Traction alopecia is a type of hair loss caused by hairstyles like tight ponytails, dreadlocks, or braids that pull on the roots of the hair. This can cause hair loss at the root or hairline that can become permanent.

Black people, particularly Black women, are the most likely to develop traction alopecia. However, protective styles like braids, twists, or dreadlocks can also have advantages in protecting hair from the elements and promoting healthy hair growth.

Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia (CCCA)

Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia (CCCA) is also called scarring alopecia. It can be caused by inflammation of the hair follicle or as a side effect of other damage to the scalp, like radiation or a burn. CCCA is known as scarring alopecia because it creates scarring of the hair follicle, which, unfortunately, typically leads to permanent hair loss.

One study found that CCCA is the most common type of scarring alopecia in Black men (other types include frontal fibrosing alopecia and lichen planopilaris).

Another small study (on 17 men) who had a scalp biopsy done to confirm CCCA found that 88 percent of them were Black males.

Hair Breakage

Research shows that Black hair tends to be “drier, more brittle, and susceptible to chemical and physical damage due to its spiral structure.” If your curly hair is breaking at the ends, it may appear that hair growth is stunted as it's not gaining length.

Other causes of hair loss in men include:

• Telogen effluvium (hair loss from stress, injury, or illness)

• Alopecia areata (an autoimmune disorder that causes patchy hair loss)

• Certain medications, including some antidepressants and beta-blockers

To learn more, check out our guide to the causes of thinning hair in men.

Below, we’ll outline some helpful tips for Black men who want to slow hair loss or maintain healthy hair growth.

Hair Loss Medications

Finasteride and minoxidil are two popular hair loss medications, for good reason. We’ll break down these two options below.

Finasteride

Oral finasteride is an FDA-approved treatment for male pattern baldness — you may know it as Propecia®. The once-daily pill helps to slow hair loss by blocking DHT (remember, that’s the hormone primarily responsible for balding).

Finasteride can also be used topically, though it does not currently have FDA approval topically. That said, it is commonly prescribed off-label, especially for those who experience side effects of finasteride when taken orally.

Minoxidil

Minoxidil, the active ingredient in Rogaine®, is a popular treatment for hair loss. It stimulates hair regrowth by improving blood flow to the hair follicles. In a 48-week study, men using minoxidil saw up to an 18 percent increase in hair growth.

Although oral minoxidil isn't FDA-approved for hair loss, it’s sometimes prescribed off-label as an alternative to the topical version, especially for those who find the topical form hard to maintain.

Minoxidil foam and minoxidil solution are available over-the-counter through our platform, and oral minoxidil (in chewable form) may be an option after a consultation with one of our healthcare providers.

Minoxidil and Finasteride Together

Minoxidil and finasteride can be used together — in fact, they may work better when paired. A 2019 meta-analysis found that combining oral finasteride and topical minoxidil "has better therapeutic efficacy than and similar safety" than using just one of them on its own.

If you decide to use both minoxidil and finasteride, we offer several options:

• Topical Spray: Our best-selling treatment is a topical finasteride & minoxidil spray that combines both ingredients in an easy-to-use spray.

• Chewable Supplements: For those who prefer an oral supplement or find topical products hard to remember to use (a major reason that minoxidil isn’t effective is poor patient compliance), our minoxidil and finasteride chews combine both along with other ingredients that help support healthy hair (like biotin and vitamins B5 and B6).

• Hair Power Pack: You can also use the two together as separate products (for example, take a finasteride pill and use minoxidil topically twice a day). You’ll find both products, plus biotin gummies and thickening shampoo, in our Hair Power Pack.

Saw Palmetto

Saw palmetto is an extract derived from a small palm plant native to the southeastern United States. It works similarly to finasteride by inhibiting the 5 alpha-reductase enzyme, which helps block DHT to some degree.

Our thickening shampoo includes saw palmetto as a key ingredient.

Although research on saw palmetto's effects on hair loss is still limited, there are some promising findings. A meta-analysis found that 60 percent of participants using both oral and topical saw palmetto reported improved overall hair quality. Additionally, 83 percent noticed increased hair density, and 27 percent saw a rise in total hair count.

Maintain Proper Hair Care

Using the right hair care products and techniques can help prevent breakage and split ends, which can result in stunted growth. Proper hair care for Black men often involves moisturizing regularly with oils (like jojoba, coconut, or argan oil) and leave-in conditioners. Practicing gentle cleansing to avoid stripping natural oils and minimizing the use of heat and harsh chemicals that can cause damage are also important.

Relatedly, if you always wear braids or other hairstyles that pull at the roots, consider loosening your hair. This helps relieve pressure on the roots and scalp, which can lead to breakage or traction alopecia.

Use Conditioner or Hair Masks

Black people often have type 4 hair, categorized by tight curls and coils. This type of hair is often dry, brittle, or prone to breakage, and using conditioner can add hydration to the hair, making it more moisturized and flexible.

Due to its spiral nature, curly or coily hair may lack moisture because it’s more difficult for moisture from the scalp to travel to the ends. Deep conditioning treatments help combat dryness.

Try Scalp Massage

Scalp massage may help boost hair growth, as a healthy scalp can lead to healthier hair. One (very small) study of nine men found that four minutes of scalp massage using a massager tool correlated with increased hair thickness after 24 weeks.

Another study of over 300 men found that 69 percent self-reported (which isn’t a totally objective measure) hair loss stabilization or regrowth after getting a daily scalp massage for 11 to 20 minutes for seven months.

Consider Scalp Micropigmentation

Scalp micropigmentation is essentially a tattoo on the scalp that mimics the look of hair. The procedure creates tiny, layered dots in different shades of brown or black to replicate the look of a five o’clock shadow on the scalp. It’s not a good option if you want to wear your hair long, but if you wear your hair close-cropped, scalp micropigmentation can create the illusion of a full head of hair.

For even more tips, check out our guide to how to make hair grow faster for men.

Here’s the TL;DR on hair growth for Black men.

• Hair loss in Black men can be caused by several factors, including male pattern baldness (which is less common in Black men than white or Asian men), traction alopecia, and CCCA. Each affects hair growth and overall hair health in unique ways.

• Combining treatments like finasteride and minoxidil alongside proper hair care and moisturizing routines can help promote healthy hair growth and prevent breakage.

• Practicing protective styling, applying conditioners and hair oils, doing scalp massages, and using products that contain saw palmetto as part of your hair care routine can help support hair retention.

If you’re interested in learning more about hair loss for Black men, check out our guides to receding hairlines in Black men.

Ready to take the next step in finding a hair loss treatment option that works for you? We can connect you with a dermatologist or healthcare provider who can assess your needs and help determine the right treatment plan for you.