Loc Maintenance 101: 9 Tips & Dos and Don’ts for Healthy Dreadlocks

Somewhere along the way, dreadlocks gained a reputation for being a low-maintenance hairstyle. While that can be true of healthy dreads once they’re fully matured, the journey to get there requires patience and consistent care: The style requires regular maintenance to retain moisture, prevent breakage, and maintain structure.

In this guide, learn the essential tips for loc maintenance, along with the do’s and don’ts for those just at the beginning of their loc journey.

First things first: Locs, short for dreadlocks (and also sometimes called dreads), is a hairstyle that’s created by sectioning hair and then allowing it to mat into rope-like strands. Locs can develop as a result of simply allowing hair to tangle, but more commonly, they’re intentionally made using techniques like twisting, braiding, backcombing, or interlocking. 

Locs are also far from new; the hairstyle has a deep and storied cultural history and is sometimes worn for spiritual or religious reasons.

Generally, the loc journey is broken into five stages. “Each stage [of the loc journey] varies in length depending on factors like hair texture, density, length, and maintenance routine,” says  Laverne Amara, founder of NVLX Labs, a luxury hair care brand created specifically for maintaining locs.

Here’s a quick breakdown of the five stages.

1. Starter Stage

The starter stage (also called the baby stage) can last from several weeks to over a year. “In the stage, hair is freshly sectioned [using one of several techniques like] comb coils, twists, braids, interlocking, or freeform locs,” Amara says. Other starter methods include palm rolling, two-strand twists, or using a crochet hook to create locs.

If you’re creating your own locs, err on the side of thicker rather than thinner sections, as locs that are too small or thin have a greater potential of breaking off.

In this phase, hair is fragile and most prone to unraveling, so a hands-off approach to maintenance (other than occasional washing) is best. The goal is to let the locs grow.

2. Budding Stage

The budding stage can last six months to over a year. During this time frame, you may notice that your locs look puffy or frizzy at the root. Amara adds that while budding, locs “may appear fuzzy, uneven, or loose in some areas.” 

You will need to retwist hair as it grows (or get it retwisted by a loctician, which is the name of a stylist who specializes in loc maintenance). But, be careful to not overstyle it, which could potentially cause breakage. Exactly how often you should retwist depends on your hair-growth rate, but a guideline is about every six weeks.

3. Teenager Stage

You’ll start to see some noticeable growth in the teenager stage, which generally happens at around a year and a half into your loc journey. Depending on how long your hair was to begin with, this stage can be awkward, as the locs may be too short to lay flat, leading them to stick up in various spots.

4. Adult Stage

In this stage, “locs thicken, become more defined, and settle into their structure. But, they may still shrink, expand, bunch, or lump unpredictably,” Amara says. Your locs will be long enough to hang down and will feel less fragile to the touch. Most won’t reach this stage until after a year and a half into a loc journey, but for many, reaching the adult stage will take longer.

5. Mature or Rooted Stage

In this stage, which tends to happen several years into the loc journey,  dreads are “firm, fully locked, and uniform,” Amera says. You’ll also notice less frizz and shrinkage and more length. Locs are longer and heavier at this point, and they hang naturally.

Whether you’re looking for dreadlock care for beginners or are just curious about how to maintain locs, we’ve got you covered. “There are many different types of locs—braidlocs, microlocs, wicks, traditional locs, freeform, and more,” Amara says. “Each has its own starting method; however, some key principles apply across the board.”

Check out the following tips for how to take care of dreads. 

1. Set a Washing Routine

Consistency is key in your hair care routine. “Develop a schedule for washing and maintaining your new growth to prevent thinning and breakage,” Amara says. The exact frequency with which you should wash your locs depends on your hair, but every two to three weeks is a good parameter. If you’re in the starter stage, you might wash it slightly more often. When it’s time for a wash, make sure your locs are fully saturated with water, then follow with shampoo.

“A water-soluble clarifying shampoo is the best way to keep locs fresh without buildup,” Amara says. These shampoos typically contain higher concentrations of ingredients, which helps to fully remove sebum, product build-up oil, or debris from the scalp and locs.

2. Be Realistic About Your Timeline

The process of growing locs is called a “journey” for a reason: It takes a long time (often years before locs are fully mature). During this time, you’ll likely experience some setbacks or awkward stages. 

Amara gives the following two tips to beginners, regardless of what kind of locs they have:

Trust the process: Listen to your loctician and don’t rush the journey.

Be patient: Locs take time to mature, and consistency is key.

Your loc maintenance routine will evolve depending on where you are in the process, so while it’s important to be consistent, it’s equally important to know that things will change over time.

3. Keep Locs Moisturized

Dreadlocks that are too dry or brittle may break, so moisture is key for keeping your hair strong and flexible.

 “Water is the best moisturizer, both internally by drinking plenty of water and externally by misting hair with water,” Amara says. “If extra hydration is needed, especially in dry seasons, a light, water-soluble leave-in conditioner or a lightweight hair oil can help maintain your hair’s softness, shine, and help seal in the moisture.”

4. Let Your Locs Dry Fully

Not allowing your dreads to fully dry could damage the hair or create a damp environment where mildew can grow. To help keep your hair dry, after washing it gently squeeze out (don’t wring) water, either with your hands or a soft microfiber towel or a jersey-fabric T-shirt. (You’ll want to avoid materials like cotton that can leave behind lint or fuzz.) Some experts recommend washing your hair in the morning to avoid sleeping on wet locs.

If you’re in a rush and don’t have time to air-dry your locs, you can use a blow dryer on medium or low heat for a few minutes, though we don’t recommend doing that regularly, as heat-styling can be damaging.

5. Don’t Go Overboard on Products

A common loc maintenance mistake Amara sees many people make, especially in the beginning stages of the journey, is using too many heavy products. This can lead to buildup, making locs look weighed down and dull. “Less is more when it comes to product usage,” she says.

It’s best to start with a small amount of product because it’s much easier to add more than to take some away. Also, stick with lightweight, moisturizing hair care products that won’t leave behind waxy residue, and go easy on (or skip) products like clay, pomade, or gel.

6. Protect Your Hair At Night

“A silk or satin hair wrap or bonnet is essential for preventing lint transfer and reducing friction while sleeping,” Amara says. For an added layer of protection, consider sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase, which can further reduce friction and help prevent tangles, breakage, or other damage.

7. Only Use Conditioner on Mature Locs

Detangling products, including conditioner, aren’t generally necessary or recommended for locs in the beginning stages. Such products can cause locs to unravel more easily.

8. Detangle With Care

Even with mature dreads, “detangling is a debated topic in the loc community,” Amara says. “Some believe combing or detangling mimics European beauty standards and is unnecessary. However, those with small locs or microlocs may experience tangling and knots,” which might give reason for using such products.

If you decide you do want to detangle your dreads as part of your loc maintenance routine, Amara recommends using a loc comb to separate gently or using your fingers to keep the locs from merging.

9. Avoid Over-Tightening or Over-Twisting

Locs need to be periodically retwisted to incorporate new growth, but overtightening or twisting can be problematic. Amara says overdoing it can cause thinning and excessive tension, leading to hair loss. (Traction alopecia is a type of hair loss caused by pulling at the roots, and it most commonly affects Black people who have tight, spiral-curling hair).

Especially in the early stages of your loc journey, it’s helpful to see a loctician—a professional who can help you learn how to retwist your hair.

While locs may seem like a low-maintenance hairstyle, they require consistent care, especially in the early stages.  Here are a few considerations to remember about loc maintenance:

• The journey from starter locs to mature locs generally takes years. An intentional and regular maintenance routine is crucial for keeping dreads healthy and structured.

• Keeping locs hydrated with water or hair oil helps prevent breakage and dryness. Regularly washing with a clarifying shampoo helps maintain both scalp health and prevents product buildup.

• Over-twisting or using excessive heavy products can lead to thinning, breakage, and product buildup. A minimalist approach with lightweight, water-soluble products, along with protective measures like wearing satin or silk wraps at night, helps maintain locs’ strength and appearance.

• As Amara says, “locs are a beautifully unique hairstyle; no two sets are alike, just like fingerprints. Embrace the journey, celebrate your locs’ individuality, and trust that your hair will flourish in its own way.”

If you’d like to learn more about Black hair care, take a look at our guides to hair growth for Black men and Black hair transplant surgeries.