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New Hair Growth vs Breakage: How to Spot the Difference

Knox Beasley, MD

Reviewed by Knox Beasley, MD

Written by Sian Ferguson

Published 11/16/2021

Updated 03/14/2025

At first glance, it’s not always easy to tell the difference between new hair growth and hair breakage. Both can cause short, fine hairs to stick up, creating a frizzy or halo-like look.

Wherever you are in your hair growth journey — whether you’re trying to determine if you’re experiencing hair loss or are just starting treatment for it — learning how to identify new hair growth can help you know if you’re heading in the right direction.

Below, we’ll explain what new hair growth looks like and what you can expect as your hair starts to regrow. We’ll also compile a list of the telltale differences between new hair growth versus breakage.

Before we go into detail on what new hair growth usually looks like, let’s quickly explain why and how hair loss occurs in the first place.

It’s normal for some hair to fall out every day — this is just the final stage of the hair growth cycle. That said, certain issues may cause your hair to fall out at a faster rate (or not grow at all).

Common types of hair loss include:

Hair loss often gets worse over time — so the sooner you get hair loss treatment, the better. Consider speaking with a healthcare professional, such as a dermatologist, if you notice any early signs of baldness.

If you have noticeable frizz or short hairs appearing here and there, it can be hard to tell whether it’s caused by new hair growth or brittle hairs that have broken off. What does new growth hair look like? And how does it differ from broken hair strands?

Here’s a main rundown between the two:  

  • Hair breakage happens when the hair shaft gets torn in one or more places. It typically occurs when you have damaged hair, which tends to be fragile, brittle, and easier to break.

  • New hair growth also causes short hairs, but they’ll often appear finer than the rest of your hair. These strands might be a different color.

This chart can help you identify whether your hair is growing or breaking.

Sign
Hair breakage
New hair growth
Short hairs
Increased hair fall
Brittle or dry hair
Split ends
Tiny dark spots on scalp
Short hairs on parts of scalp with visible thinning
Hair is a different color
Finer or flyaway hairs

If you’re struggling to see any new hair growth, one technique that could make it easier to notice is taking regular progress photos. By snapping a photo in the same lighting conditions every month, you’ll be able to identify new hair growth as it occurs.

Our guide to taking finasteride before-and-after photos explains how you can take accurate pictures and assess your hair growth progress over time.

What does new hair growth look like?

Many factors can cause hair breakage, including:

  • Heat styling and harsh hair products, which can damage the hair shaft

  • Tight hairstyles, which can put tension on the scalp and strands

  • Bad hair care habits, like brushing wet hair or heat-styling too often

Don’t mistake broken hairs for baby hairs. One way to identify baby hairs versus breakage is that baby hairs tend to form around the temples and hairline, while broken hairs can appear anywhere on the head.

That said, not all baby hairs will grow into longer hairs. Some might stay short, like those around your hairline.

If you’re unsure, a hairstylist can help you identify if your hair is brittle and damaged and offer advice to encourage healthy hair growth. 

If you’re beginning to lose your hair, don’t believe the myth that nothing can be done about it. Many research-backed hair loss treatments can promote healthy hair regrowth, boost hair density, and, at the very least, prevent hair loss from getting worse.

Some worthwhile treatments include:

  • Minoxidil. This FDA-approved, over-the-counter topical treatment promotes blood flow to the scalp, stimulating hair growth. In addition to a liquid solution, Minoxidil comes in the form of a liquid solution and foam.

  • Finasteride. Specifically used for male pattern baldness, finasteride is an FDA-approved prescription pill that blocks the body from producing the male hormone DHT (dihydrotestosterone), shielding hair follicles from damage.

  • Topical finasteride & minoxidil spray. This safe and effective hair loss combo is worth trying if you want to give your hair the best possible shot at recovering from male pattern hair loss.

  • Supplements. Brittle hair and telogen effluvium can be caused by vitamin deficiencies. Try a hair loss supplement like our biotin gummies to boost your nutrient levels.

To prevent hair breaking, practice good hair care habits. Some top tips include:

  • Avoid excessive brushing and combing.  

  • Eat a balanced, nutrient-rich diet.

  • Keep your scalp and hair clean.

  • Avoid overly tight hairstyles, like tight braids, buns, or ponytails. 

  • Avoid excessive use of harsh chemicals, like bleach or relaxers.

  • Opt for gentle shampoos and conditioners.

  • Use deep-conditioning hair masks or hair oils for hydration.

  • Use a heat-protectant product when using heat-styling tools.  

  • Use the lowest heat setting on your blow dryer

  • Be gentle when detangling your hair.

  • Give yourself regular scalp massages.

  • Get regular hair trims to keep split ends at bay. 

Our men’s hair care tips go into more detail about these habits and how you can make them part of your daily hair care routine.

At first glance, broken hairs might look like hair growth, as both can show up as small, short hairs around different parts of the scalp. 

It can be hard to discern new hair growth sticking up from broken, flyaway hairs. But here’s what you should keep in mind to tell the difference between new hair growth versus breakage:

  • Shorter hairs in thinning areas are usually a sign of hair growth. These hairs may start out as small dark spots on the scalp as they begin to grow from the hair follicle and out through the skin. 

  • Broken hair is typically caused by hair damage. Hair breakage is usually accompanied by brittle hair strands, split ends, and increased hair fall.

  • Take before-and-after photos. If you’ve recently started treating your hair loss, taking a photo of your hairline and scalp on a monthly basis can help you track your progress.   

Since your hair requires time to grow, patience is key. Focus on practicing good hair health habits, using your hair loss treatment consistently, and avoiding harsh styling techniques.

Interested in getting started? We can set you up to speak with a healthcare provider online. This is the first step toward accessing the best hair treatment for your specific hair type.

8 Sources

  1. American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD). (n.d.). How to stop damaging your hair. https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/hair-loss/insider/stop-damage
  2. Badri T, et al. (2021). Minoxidil. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK482378/
  3. Ho CH, et al. (2021). Androgenetic alopecia. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK430924/
  4. Hoover E, et al. (2021). Physiology, hair. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK499948/
  5. Hughes EC, et al. (2022). Telogen effluvium. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK430848/
  6. Hu R, et al. (2015). Combined treatment with oral finasteride and topical minoxidil in male androgenetic alopecia: a randomized and comparative study in Chinese patients. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/dth.12246
  7. LeBeau MA, et al. (2011). The role of variations in growth rate and sample collection on interpreting results of segmental analyses of hair. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21382678/
  8. Zito PM, et al. (2022, May 8). Finasteride. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK513329/
Editorial Standards

Hims & Hers has strict sourcing guidelines to ensure our content is accurate and current. We rely on peer-reviewed studies, academic research institutions, and medical associations. We strive to use primary sources and refrain from using tertiary references. See a mistake? Let us know at [email protected]!

This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. The information contained herein is not a substitute for and should never be relied upon for professional medical advice. Always talk to your doctor about the risks and benefits of any treatment. Learn more about our editorial standards here.

Knox Beasley, MD

Dr. Knox Beasley is a board certified dermatologist specializing in hair loss. He completed his undergraduate studies at the United States Military Academy at West Point, NY, and subsequently attended medical school at Tulane University School of Medicine in New Orleans, LA. 

Dr. Beasley first began doing telemedicine during his dermatology residency in 2013 with the military, helping to diagnose dermatologic conditions in soldiers all over the world. 

Dr. Beasley is board certified by the American Board of Dermatology, and is a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology.

Originally from Nashville, TN, Dr. Beasley currently lives in North Carolina and enjoys spending time outdoors (with sunscreen of course) with his wife and two children in his spare time. 

Education

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  • Dermatology Residency. San Antonio Uniformed Services Health Education Consortium

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