What Is a Hair Cuticle? A Guide to Hair Cuticle Care for Men

There’s a lot more happening with each hair on your head than meets the eye. Each strand is made up of different structures. For example, the hair follicle produces and nourishes hair as it grows from your scalp. The hair cuticle is the outer protective layer of the hair strand that shields it from damage once it emerges.

Think of the hair cuticle as a series of tiny overlapping scales that help lock in moisture, reflect light, and protect your hair from damage. 

A healthy hair cuticle is smooth and makes your hair strong and shiny, while a damaged cuticle can cause frizz, dullness, and breakage. 

Here, discover what exactly the hair cuticle does for you, how to tell if it’s damaged, and the best ways to protect, strengthen, and care for yours. 

A hair cuticle is like the bodyguard of your hair—it’s the tough outermost layer of your hair shaft that protects the softer, more vulnerable parts (like the cortex and medulla) beneath. 

Picture it as tiny roof shingles: Cells called keratinocytes are stacked perfectly to keep out dirt and styling products and protect against heat. The overlapping cells of a hair cuticle have also been described as fish scales. 

When your cuticle is smooth and healthy, your hair shines. But when it’s damaged, your hair is likely to be noticeably frizzy and weak. Treat it well, and your hair will reward you with strength and shine.

You might be wondering how to tell whether your hair cuticles are in good shape and able to do their job well, or if they’re in distress and crying out for some attention. 

A healthy cuticle helps your hair retain moisture, provides a smooth surface that reflects light for shine and serves as a barrier against physical and environmental damage. When the cuticle lies flat and remains intact, hair looks and feels healthy, smooth, and shiny. 

One way to determine if you have a damaged hair cuticle is by running your fingers through your hair. If it feels like dragging your hand over sandpaper, your cuticle might be struggling. 

Dull, lifeless hair is another dead giveaway: Your cuticle is no longer healthy enough to reflect light. 

And if your hair tangles or breaks more easily than usual when you brush it, consider that a loud call for help.

Protecting your hair cuticle is all about treating it with care and avoiding habits that cause unnecessary damage, like causing hair cuticles to open.

Hair cuticles open when exposed to heat, chemical treatments, or high-pH products (your hair’s natural pH is around 4.5 to 5.5), allowing moisture and nutrients to enter or escape.

When washing your hair, stick to room-temperature water, as water that’s too hot can cause the cuticle to swell and weaken over time. Similarly, alcohol-free styling products are a better choice, as many traditional gels and sprays can dry out and rough up the cuticle. 

It’s also important to be mindful of your hairstyles. For guys with longer hair, tight styles can create extra stress on the cuticle, leading to breakage. 

If you brush your hair, make sure you’re not brushing too aggressively and opt for a brush with soft bristles. If you use heat-styling tools, keep them on a lower setting to avoid roasting your cuticle. 

After swimming in chlorinated pools, rinse your hair right away to prevent chlorine from stripping the cuticle. 

For an added boost, a diluted apple cider vinegar rinse once a week may help smooth the cuticle and enhance shine (although more research is needed). Use it sparingly to avoid over-drying—after all, this natural remedy is acidic.

Finally, at night, consider using a satin or silk hair wrap or pillowcase to reduce friction and minimize damage.

Sealing your hair cuticle is like putting the lid back on a jar of food—necessary if you want to keep things fresh. Here’s how to close a hair cuticle. 

First, wash your hair with lukewarm water. 

Next, grab a conditioner or leave-in treatment and gently work it through your hair. This helps lock in moisture and smooth out those cuticle shingles. Rinse with cold water (just a few seconds will do). 

Finally, if you’re heat-styling your hair after a shower, be sure to first apply a heat protectant. Consider adding a few drops of hair oil to the mix—it’s like the cherry on top, giving your cuticles that extra shine and security. 

It’s normal to experience changes in hair cuticle strength and hair health as you age. Still, there are plenty of everyday things you can do to keep them as protected as possible.

Not sure what hair care products will help? Whether your goals are adequately sealed hair cuticles or simply overall healthy hair, we’ve got you covered: 

• Sulfate-free shampoo. Harsh shampoos can strip your hair of its natural oils and, ultimately, its strength, structure, and shine. If you don’t already read shampoo bottle labels, now is a good time to start. Look for "sulfate-free" on the label. Sulfate-free products like our hair thickening shampoo or our volumizing shampoo are safe options to start with.

• Moisturizing conditioner. After shampooing, follow up with a good conditioner to smooth out rough edges and keep strands hydrated. 

• Leave-in conditioner. This doesn’t have to be a part of your everyday routine, but if your hair is feeling dry or frizzy, this is a good first-aid kit for your cuticles.

• Hair masks. Masks aren’t just for your face. Consider using a hair mask once a week for extra moisture, repair, and resilience.

• Heat protectant spray. If you’re into blow-drying or using hot tools, don’t skip this extra armor for your hair against direct heat.

• Hair oil. A couple of drops of hair oil are all you need to add shine and smooth out flyaways. 

• Specialized hair treatments. For men with color-treated or damaged hair, in-shower glossing sprays or acidic conditioners can help restore pH balance and seal the cuticle.

• Regular trims. This isn’t a product, but getting regular haircuts keeps split ends from taking over. Not sure how often you should be making an appointment? Ask your barber—they can help you understand your unique hair maintenance needs. 

The health of your hair is intricately tied to your overall mental and physical well-being. So in addition to healthy hair cuticle practices, it’s important to make healthy lifestyle choices as well. 

Here are some other tips to consider as you’re examining your hair health—and your overall health: 

• Hydrate. Dehydration makes your hair cuticles dry and cranky. Don’t wait until you’re thirsty to gulp down a bunch of water. Instead, try filling a reusable water bottle in the morning and sipping on it throughout the day, replenishing your supply as needed. Focus on plain water as your primary beverage, rotating in things like lemon water or herbal teas when you need a change.

• Optimize your nutrition. The nutrients you eat are used all over your body where they’re needed—including your hair. A balanced diet with plenty of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants helps keep your hair strong and your cuticles smooth. Fuel your follicles with a variety of fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds, legumes, lean proteins, and healthy fats. 

• Limit direct heat and sun exposure. Sunlight is great for improving your mood, but it becomes a potential health threat when you’re exposed for too long. Minimize the time your hair’s in direct sunlight, and use hats or UV-protectant sprays when you're outdoors.

• Don’t overwash. Everybody’s hair is different: Figure out what kind of washing schedule makes yours look and feel its best. For many people, washing hair daily can strip its natural oils. Aim for every other day or even less frequently.

• Sleep on silk or satin. Cotton pillowcases can rough up your cuticles overnight. Sleeping on silk or satin helps protect your hair even if you toss and turn.

• Be gentle when drying. Skip the aggressive towel rub. Use a microfiber towel or pat hair dry gently and allow it to air dry as much as possible. 

• Practice stress management. Some stress is unavoidable; it’s how you respond that really matters. Stress can make hair weak and brittle, so make stress-management practices a part of your regular routine. Try meditation, spending time in nature, talking to trusted friends, moving your body, and listening to calming music. 

• Avoid harsh chemicals. Bleaching, perms, and overdoing it with hair color can fry your cuticles over time. Instead, go easy on the harsh chemicals—or at the very least, space out your chemical processing treatments so it’s not an all-the-time thing.  

Even if you’ve never heard of it before, your hair cuticle plays a central role in keeping your hair strong, shiny, and healthy. By understanding its purpose and taking simple steps to protect and strengthen it, you can confidently wear hair that looks and feels great. 

Here are three key things to remember related to hair cuticle care: 

• Gentleness is key. It’s important to be gentle with your hair care. Use lukewarm (not scalding) water, avoid harsh products, and be mindful of over-styling and high-heat exposure to keep your cuticle intact.

• Hydration and protection matter. You don’t need a ton of haircare products to have healthy hair—but you should invest in the right ones. Conditioners, hair oil, hair masks, and heat-protectant sprays can help lock in moisture and shield your hair from damage.

• Lifestyle habits are important. What you do every day affects your physical and mental health, as well as the health of your hair. Stay hydrated, eat a nutrient-dense diet, and manage stress for hair that shines from the inside out.

With a little effort and the right care routine, your hair will be smoother, stronger, and ready to handle whatever comes its way. Want more hair health tips for men? Check out our hair care resources or find support for hair loss. If you’re not sure what you need, start by taking our free online hair quiz.