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FDA approved for more than 25 years
While keratin treatments, like fancy face creams or scented candles, are typically marketed to women, men can also benefit from these hair treatments. If you’re dealing with frizz or just want your hair to look shinier, a keratin treatment can be beneficial to add to your hair care routine.
Here, we’ll talk about how keratin hair treatments for men work, what to expect during the procedure, their costs, and who may not be the right candidate for these types of treatments.
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Before we get into the specifics of keratin treatments, it’s important to explain what keratin is.
Keratin is a protein made by the body and functions as a protective barrier for hair, skin, and nails. Hair is about 80 percent keratin, and the fibrous protein gives hair strength and structure. Essentially, without keratin, your hair would not exist.
You’ve probably seen shampoos and conditioners infused with keratin, but here we are talking specifically about keratin protein treatments, which are done in a salon.
During a keratin treatment, a keratin-based formula is applied to the hair, and then sealed in with heat, usually using a flat iron. Typically, the keratin used in these treatments is derived from wool, feathers, or horns. The formula contains other ingredients such as:
Formaldehyde (or a formaldehyde-releasing agent). Helps open the hair cuticle and bond keratin to hair
Glyoxylic acid. Used in some treatments as an alternative to formaldehyde. When glyoxylic acid is used, the treatment is sometimes called “formaldehyde-free.”
Thiourea dioxide. Helps to change the hair’s shape
Calcium hydroxide. Opens up the hair cuticle so the product can penetrate and straighten your hair
Keratin treatments can help turn frizzy hair into silky hair without a ton of styling and straighten out wavy or curly hair (though they won't make it pin-straight). The treatment is semi-permanent, usually lasting three to six months, and gradually washes out over time.
If you’ve never had a keratin treatment, you may not be sure what it will be like. Here’s what men (and women) can expect during a keratin treatment:
Your hair will be washed thoroughly so it’s clean and free of residue and product build-up.
Your stylist will apply the treatment solution to your damp hair using a brush or with their gloved hands. They may also comb it through your hair for an even application.
Typically, the treatment will sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Sometimes, your hair will be rewashed to remove the solution.
Then, a keratin sealing serum is applied, and the stylist will blow dry your or use a flat iron to seal the treatment.
It takes a long time. You'll be very surprised if you go into the experience expecting it to take about the same time as a haircut. The procedure typically takes two to four hours, depending on the length and texture of your hair and your stylist.
There will be a weird smell. There is a musty, slightly chemical smell that you will notice during the treatment — part of the reason it’s important to do the treatment in a well-ventilated area. The scent may linger until you wash your hair.
You can’t wash your hair for a few days. The general guideline is to wait three days post-treatment to wash your hair, which allows the keratin to bond with the hair fully. You’ll also need to avoid sweating, swimming, or other activities that would cause your hair to get wet — including going outside in the rain.
You’ll need to use a special shampoo. It’s essential to use a sulfate-free shampoo after a keratin treatment. Sulfates are chemicals added to shampoos and other hair products to make them lather, but they can be harsh on hair and will strip the keratin you just paid for from your hair.
Keratin treatments and relaxers achieve similar results but are not the same thing.
Relaxers contain ingredients that break the bonds of curly hair, like sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or guanidine hydroxide. These chemical bonds, called disulfide bonds, give hair its shape and texture, so breaking them makes the hair straighter but also weaker.
On the other hand, Keratin treatments do not break the bonds of curly hair — instead, the chemicals smooth and alter the curl's shape. In fact, keratin treatments are thought to strengthen the hair. Keratin also helps to seal the hair’s cuticle and split ends so it appears healthier and is less prone to breakage.
One of the biggest differences between chemical treatments (like relaxers) and keratin treatments is that relaxers are permanent — they last until the hair grows out. In contrast, keratin treatments are semi-permanent, lasting about three to six months, depending on how you care for your hair and how frequently you wash.
But we do have to note that keratin treatments can lead to an awkward growing-out phase where hair is curly at the root and straight at the ends.
Why would a man get a keratin treatment? There are many ways keratin can benefit men’s hair, including:
Making hair more manageable
Reducing frizz
Adding shine
Reducing styling time, because hair dries faster after keratin
Protecting from environmental factors, since keratin creates a barrier against pollution and UV damage
Reducing damage and making hair stronger
Helping to seal split ends and keep hair looking healthy
Helping reduce heat damage because you may be more inclined to skip hair straightening or blow-drying
Keratin treatments have many benefits for hair, but they’re not risk-free. Here are some of the main potential risks of these treatments.
Many keratin treatments contain or release formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. Though formaldehyde helps straighten the hair and prolongs the effect of the treatment, inhaling its fumes can irritate your eyes, nose, throat, and skin, and long-term exposure may increase cancer risk.
In the United States and the European Union (EU), legislation limits the concentration of formaldehyde allowed in personal care products to 0.2 percent. However, a study on Brazilian keratin treatments — that’s just another term for the treatment — found that the levels of formaldehyde in the treatments were five times higher than the national safety standard for chemical exposure.
This sounds alarming, but for context, formaldehyde is naturally occurring in some foods, including bananas, potatoes, and cauliflower. However, higher levels of formaldehyde can cause skin irritation in some people.
While the treatment is designed to improve the appearance of hair, the high heat used to seal in the keratin (up to 450°F) can cause heat damage, leading to brittle and dry hair over time. If you have frequent treatments, the heat can weaken your hair structure and lead to breakage.
Keratin can also alter the curl’s natural curl pattern, making it difficult to return to wearing your natural hair once the treatment wears off.
Some people may experience allergic reactions to the chemicals in the treatment. Symptoms can include skin irritation, rashes, itching, or eye irritation.
Keratin treatments are a good option for anyone with coarse, curly, wavy, or damaged hair who wants to reduce frizz, add shine, and reduce drying and styling time. They work for men with short or long hair.
But not everyone is a good candidate. Below, we’ve outlined some people who should probably skip keratin treatments, including people who:
Are sensitive to formaldehyde
Have respiratory problems
Have fine or very straight hair
Have scalp sensitivity
Are pregnant or nursing
Are looking for a permanent solution
Want a cost-effective solution
Depending on your hair length and where you get it done, a hair keratin treatment typically costs between $150 and $600 (plus tip). Some salons may offer discounts for customers who agree to return for another treatment within a specific timeframe.
Here’s the TL;DR on keratin treatments for men.
Keratin treatments for men can help you get frizz-free, manageable hair. They can be a good option if you want to cut down on styling time or wear your hair long and smooth.
While there are benefits, it’s important to consider the potential risks and downsides, such as formaldehyde exposure, heat damage, and the high cost.
Not all hair types or situations are suited for keratin treatments, so consult a hairstylist to see if it fits your needs.
To learn more about hair care for men, check out our guides to the best haircuts for thinning hair and the best foods for hair growth.
Hims & Hers has strict sourcing guidelines to ensure our content is accurate and current. We rely on peer-reviewed studies, academic research institutions, and medical associations. We strive to use primary sources and refrain from using tertiary references. See a mistake? Let us know at [email protected]!
Dr. Knox Beasley is a board certified dermatologist specializing in hair loss. He completed his undergraduate studies at the United States Military Academy at West Point, NY, and subsequently attended medical school at Tulane University School of Medicine in New Orleans, LA.
Dr. Beasley first began doing telemedicine during his dermatology residency in 2013 with the military, helping to diagnose dermatologic conditions in soldiers all over the world.
Dr. Beasley is board certified by the American Board of Dermatology, and is a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology.
Originally from Nashville, TN, Dr. Beasley currently lives in North Carolina and enjoys spending time outdoors (with sunscreen of course) with his wife and two children in his spare time.
Bachelor of Science, Life Sciences. United States Military Academy.
Doctor of Medicine. Tulane University School of Medicine
Dermatology Residency. San Antonio Uniformed Services Health Education Consortium
Board Certified. American Board of Dermatology
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