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How to Use Pomade: Get the Perfect Look Without the Grease

Knox Beasley, MD

Reviewed by Knox Beasley, MD

Written by Sian Ferguson

Published 04/20/2025

Want a hairstyle that actually stays in place? Enter pomade, your hair's new best friend. If you’ve ever wondered how to use pomade without making your hair look greasy, you’re about to get the full scoop — pun intended. 

When it comes to men's grooming, getting that effortless pomade look is all about smart technique (and moderation). Once you’ve got the basics down, pomade can be a great addition to your hair care routine

Below, we'll break it down for you, including exactly how much pomade you should use, how the product works, and how to keep your hair healthy while you’re using it.

Hair pomade is a styling product that gives you a slick, shiny, or textured finish without the crunchy stiffness of hair gels or sprays. It coats your hair strands, giving them weight, shine, and moldability.

It’s a product that has been around since the 19th century — the original stuff was made from bear fat back in the 19th century, which is why it’s sometimes called “bear grease.” Nowadays, pomade is usually made from beeswax, petroleum jelly, and oils. 

There are good reasons for the product’s staying power: It’s versatile, it offers light hold, and it’s great for taming frizz and flyaway strands to make your hairstyle look neater and more intentional. 

Before we get into our step-by-step guide, let’s cover step zero. The most important step is choosing the right pomade for your hair type and goals. 

There are three main types of pomade:

  • Oil-based pomade: Strong hold, classic shine, tough to wash out — but great for traditional looks like pompadours.  

  • Water-based pomade: Good hold and shine but rinse out easily with water.

  • Clay-based pomade: Strong hold, and often used with heat styling to create a more sculpted look

Modern pomades offer a range of finishes. For example, you could opt for a matte finish pomade, a high-shine option, light hold, or strong hold depending on your needs. 

Let’s get to the good stuff: how to use pomade without turning your hair into a greasy mess.

1. Start With Clean, Slightly Damp Hair 

Always start with a clean slate. To ensure your hairdo looks its very best, apply pomade after washing and towel-drying your hair. 

Clean hair gives you the best foundation for a healthy looking hairstyle — no leftover product, sweat, or oils getting in the way. Use a high-quality men's shampoo and conditioner to keep your scalp healthy and avoid buildup.

Keep your hair damp, but not dripping wet. Slightly damp hair helps the pomade distribute more evenly and makes it easier to sculpt your style. It’ll clump on totally dry hair, and it’ll slide right off sopping wet hair.  

If your hair dries too fast, lightly mist it with water before applying pomade.

2. Use a Small Amount Of Pomade

If you’re uninitiated with the product, you might be wondering, How much pomade should I use? Our suggestion is to start small.  

A dime-sized amount is a safe starting point for short to medium-length hair. If you’ve got long hair, you might need a little more — but it’s always easier to add more product than to fix a heavy-handed application.

Likewise, thick hair will need a little more pomade than thin hair.

Remember: You want to lightly coat your hair, not drown it. 

3. Warm It Up

Before pomade hits your hair, it needs a little warming up. Rub the pomade between your palms and fingers until it softens and becomes spreadable. This helps ensure even coverage, prevents clumps, and makes it easier to work into your hair without tugging.

4. Apply Evenly

Start at the back of your head and work your way toward the front. Focus on running your fingers through the roots first if you’re aiming for volume.

If you’re going for a sleeker or more polished look, apply more product toward the ends. 

Want a clean, structured style? Comb it through. Prefer a messy, natural look? Use your fingers to tousle, scrunch, and shape.

5. Style as Desired

This is where the fun starts. Slick back your hair for a classic Don Draper vibe, build height with a voluminous quiff, or create a modern, casual side sweep. 

Need some ideas? Check out our guide to the best men's hairstyles for major inspo.

6. Heat Style (If Necessary)

Depending on the look you're going for, a little heat styling after applying pomade can take your hairstyle to the next level.

Certain pomades — usually clay- or water-based — are designed to be used with heat styling tools. 

As you blow-dry your hair, use your fingers or a brush to shape the style. Focus on lifting the roots for volume. 

Once your hair is dry, you can always add a touch more pomade if needed. This can lock in the shape and add definition. 

To avoid heat damage, use your heat styling tools on a medium- to low-heat setting, and try not to use heat on your hair every day. 

7. Maintain Your Look

One of the best parts about using pomade — especially water-based pomades — is flexibility. You can tweak your look throughout the day with a quick comb-through or finger adjustment without losing control or shine.

If you're using a water-based pomade and your style needs a midday refresh, just wet your hands a little before reworking your hair. Easy.

Pomade’s got a lot going for it — but overdoing it can lead to a few issues. 

Here are some risks of using pomade:

  • Scalp buildup. Especially with oil-based pomades, buildup can clog pores and lead to irritation, flaking, or breakouts.

  • Greasy hair. If you apply too much or don’t wash it out properly, your hair can feel heavy or dirty. 

  • Scalp irritation. While it’s rare, certain ingredients in pomade may cause irritation. Do a patch test before trying a new hair product, especially if you have sensitive skin.

To avoid buildup and greasy hair, wash out the product thoroughly after styling days. If you think you have product buildup, use a clarifying shampoo to give your hair a deep cleanse. Keeping your scalp clean is the key to healthy hair, whether you’re rocking pomade or not.

And in case you’re wondering, there’s no connection between pomade and hair loss. If you’re using pomade and think your hair is falling out, something else is likely the culprit. Speak with a healthcare professional if you’re noticing the early signs of hair loss — there are plenty of effective hair loss treatments out there. 

If you want a hairstyle that looks polished but still feels like you, pomade is one of the best tools out there. It gives you control without crunch, shine without stickiness, and flexibility without frustration.

Here’s what you should keep in mind when using pomade:

  • Choose the right product. Before styling, make sure you have the best pomade type for your hair goals — whether it’s a strong or light hold pomade, a shiny or matte finish, heavy or lightweight. 

  • Apply it to clean, damp hair. You want your hair to be fresh and slightly damp — not sopping wet — to give you that healthy look.

  • Distribute it evenly. To add volume to your hair, focus on the roots. For more structure, focus on the ends.  

Remember: great style starts with great care. Invest in a good hair routine and you’ll have hair that looks fresh.

4 Sources

  1. Hair styling without damage. (n.d.). https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/hair-loss/hair-care/styling
  2. Sailaja AK, et al. (2021). Comparative Study of Various Brands of Synthetic Hair Gels and Herbal Hair Gels. https://aditum.org/journals/clinical-case-reports-and-clinical-study/archive/382
  3. Tips for healthy hair. (n.d.). https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/hair-scalp-care/hair/healthy-hair-tips
  4. Wikanto JR, et al. (2022). Haircare Practice and Dandruff Problems Among Indonesian Medical Students. https://scholarhub.ui.ac.id/jdvi/vol6/iss2/1
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Hims & Hers has strict sourcing guidelines to ensure our content is accurate and current. We rely on peer-reviewed studies, academic research institutions, and medical associations. We strive to use primary sources and refrain from using tertiary references. See a mistake? Let us know at [email protected]!

This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. The information contained herein is not a substitute for and should never be relied upon for professional medical advice. Always talk to your doctor about the risks and benefits of any treatment. Learn more about our editorial standards here.

Knox Beasley, MD

Dr. Knox Beasley is a board certified dermatologist specializing in hair loss. He completed his undergraduate studies at the United States Military Academy at West Point, NY, and subsequently attended medical school at Tulane University School of Medicine in New Orleans, LA. 

Dr. Beasley first began doing telemedicine during his dermatology residency in 2013 with the military, helping to diagnose dermatologic conditions in soldiers all over the world. 

Dr. Beasley is board certified by the American Board of Dermatology, and is a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology.

Originally from Nashville, TN, Dr. Beasley currently lives in North Carolina and enjoys spending time outdoors (with sunscreen of course) with his wife and two children in his spare time. 

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  • Dermatology Residency. San Antonio Uniformed Services Health Education Consortium

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