Cowlick vs. Balding: How to Tell the Difference

You’re styling your hair and one section just won’t go the way you want it to. This could be a cowlick or, in some cases, a sign you’re starting to go bald — which is why you Googled “cowlick vs. balding.”

Dealing with the occasional unruly area doesn’t point to hair loss. While a cowlick isn’t a sign of male pattern baldness (androgenetic alopecia) or hair loss in general, it can be mistaken for a bald spot.

Below, we’ll talk about what a cowlick is and how it can differ from genetic balding or stress-related hair loss. We’ll also discuss what you can do if you’re starting to develop a receding hairline, a balding crown, or other signs of hair loss, from styling techniques to hair loss treatments.

A cowlick is a natural hair growth pattern that’s different from the pattern of the rest of the hair on your scalp. Often, a cowlick appears as one section of hair on the top of the head that sticks straight up or grows in the opposite direction from the rest in a ”hair whorl.”

If you have longer hair, you may not notice your cowlick. But cowlicks can be located almost anywhere on the head — near the crown (or vertex) of the scalp, near the sides, or even in the middle of your hairline.

Most people have one cowlick (aka hair whorl) located around the midline of their scalp, close to the crown. A small number of people (about five percent of the population) have two hair whorls — or a ”double crown.”

Many researchers agree that cowlicks develop primarily due to a person’s genetic makeup and family history.

Cowlicks develop before birth and can affect both men and women. While a fetus is developing, cowlicks develop when hair follicles grow in a slant opposite the direction of the rest of the hair.

Having said that, factors other than genes might also play a role in the development of cowlicks, even if their influence is relatively small.

For example, research has found that identical twins, who share 100 percent of their genetic material at birth, almost always have matching hair whorls. However, a small percentage of identical twins show opposite whorls, suggesting this trait isn’t entirely genetic.

Crown balding is a term used to describe hair loss around the vertex scalp — the area near the crown of the head. Losing some hair around this part of your scalp is one of the early signs of balding in men.

Balding near the crown is most commonly caused by male pattern baldness, also called male pattern hair loss. This type of hair loss is due to a combination of genetic factors and the effects of a hormone called dihydrotestosterone (DHT).

Over time, DHT can attach to hormone receptors located throughout the scalp and cause hair follicle miniaturization. As follicles become smaller, they eventually stop producing hairs capable of penetrating the outermost layer of skin.

This process typically begins at the hairline and crown, resulting in the classic receding hairline and bald patch many men with male pattern baldness eventually notice in the mirror.

Other types of hair loss that can affect hair growth around the crown:

• Alopecia areata, a form of immune system-related hair loss involving damage to hair follicles

• Telogen effluvium, temporary excessive hair shedding triggered by stress, illnesses that cause fever, nutritional deficiencies, and other medical issues

• Traction alopecia, hair loss caused by hairstyles and products that pull and put tension on hair follicles

• Tinea capitis, hair loss that can develop as a result of a fungal infection on the scalp

• Cicatricial alopecia (scarring alopecia), hair loss that happens when scar tissue develops over hair follicles

Hair loss can also occur as a result of certain medications, such as chemotherapy drugs, thyroid medications, and anticoagulants.

For more, read our guide to things that can cause your hair to fall out.

A cowlick is a pattern of hair growth, while a bald spot is a sign of hair loss. Though cowlicks seldom change over time, bald spots tend to expand with age. Also, while hair loss can be treated, cowlicks can’t.

Since cowlicks can disrupt hair’s flow and make it harder to style, it can result in the appearance of hair loss — but it’s not. We promise.

Let’s expand on this more:

• A cowlick is a natural, normal feature of the scalp. It’s mostly a result of genetics, and most people are born with a specific hair whorl. It may look like hair is growing in a different direction, or you might have a swirling pattern in your hair.

• Male pattern baldness (genetic hair loss) develops as you grow older. A range of factors can play a role in balding, from genetics to the production of certain hormones like DHT.

• Cowlicks generally aren’t treatable. Because cowlicks are genetic and formed prior to birth, they’re not something you can treat. You can conceal a cowlick by styling your hair carefully, but there’s no pill to take to make it less visible or change the direction of growth.

• Hair loss is very treatable. In contrast, there are several treatments available for both male pattern baldness and temporary hair shedding, from over-the-counter treatments to prescription medications.

Similarly to having a cowlick, a visible hair part is a normal aesthetic feature and not necessarily a sign you’re losing hair.

But if you have a cowlick and have noticed it’s starting to change — or that your hair is starting to thin and make your cowlick less visible or your hair part wider — it may be a sign you’re beginning to develop hair loss.

Other common signs of male pattern baldness include:

• A receding hairline unrelated to a cowlick

• Slow or no hair growth in certain areas of the scalp

• A hair part that’s gradually getting larger and wider

• Diffuse hair thinning that occurs across the whole scalp

• Thinning and lower hair density at the crown of the head

Our guide on how to tell if you’re going bald goes into more detail about these signs, as well as why some guys might experience early male pattern baldness.

Even if you’re sure you aren’t balding, a cowlick can be frustrating to deal with. Although you can’t make a cowlick go away forever, there are several ways to make styling the hair around a cowlick easier, including:

• Switching to a short haircut

• Growing your hair out

• Using styling products

• Blow-drying

Let’s look at each of these in more detail so you can get rid of your cowlick — at least aesthetically — and make your hair look more even and consistent.

Switch to a Short Haircut

A cowlick is a section of hair that sticks out from the crowd, so one of the easiest ways to make this feature less visible is to stick with a short haircut. The shorter your hair is, the less visible your cowlick will typically be.

If you’re tired of having to style your hair to conceal a cowlick, consider a buzz cut or another short hairstyle to stop it from affecting your hair’s overall appearance.

Grow Your Hair Out

Another easy — albeit slower — way to cover up a cowlick is to grow out your hair. Longer hair is heavier, meaning the cowlick will eventually be pulled down so it sits in line with the rest of your hair.

For even better results, try applying conditioner to your hair regularly. This ensures your hair stays moisturized, which can increase its weight and help it sit naturally against your scalp.

Use Hair Styling Products

If your hair isn’t long enough to sit down naturally on its own or short enough to conceal your cowlick completely, consider using styling products to get it under control.

From a little bit of gel to some wax or pomade, many styling products can help tame even the most stubborn cowlick.

Be aware that some hair styling products, such as those that give a wet look, can make thinning hair more obvious. Try experimenting with different gels, pomades, and other products to find one that matches your hair texture and styling needs.

Blow-Dry Your Hair

Even though you can’t force your hair to grow in a different direction, you can work with your hair to help it sit the way you’d like it to.

In addition to hair styling products (or as an alternative to styling products), you can tame a cowlick with a blow dryer.

To control a cowlick using heat, blow-dry it in the direction you’d like it to point, then use a comb to style it more effectively. After you’ve used warm air to control the cowlick, switch to cooler air to help hold it in place.

One thing to keep in mind when using a blow dryer is that excessive heat can damage hair, which may make thinning worse. To limit damage, use the lower heat setting and hold the blow dryer as far from your scalp as possible while still providing adequate airflow.

The key to preventing baldness is to take a proactive approach. If you wait until you’ve lost most of your hair or developed a severely receding hairline to take action, you’re unlikely to get the results you’d like.

On the other hand, taking action as soon as you notice a pattern of hair loss can put you in a position to keep most or all your hair.

Start Using Hair Regrowth Products

Currently, the most effective way to treat hair loss is with medication.

One medication, finasteride, works by stopping the conversion of testosterone to DHT, the hormone that causes male pattern baldness. Specifically, it prevents DHT from damaging hair follicles, which allows new hair to grow.

Finasteride is available as an FDA-approved oral medication and a topical formulation that’s not yet approved by the FDA.

The exact mechanism of action for the other big hair loss medication, minoxidil, isn’t entirely understood yet. But it’s believed to work by increasing blood flow to the scalp and moving hair into the anagen phase (active growth) of the hair growth cycle.

Minoxidil is available as an FDA-approved topical liquid or foam, as well as an oral medication not approved by the FDA. It’s usually applied two times a day to areas of the scalp with noticeable hair thinning.

We offer minoxidil solution, minoxidil foam, a two-in-one topical finasteride & minoxidil spray, and oral finasteride online.

Consider Hair Transplant Surgery

Hair transplant surgery is a cosmetic procedure that involves moving healthy hair follicles from the back and sides of the scalp to areas with active hair loss.

The hair follicles used in this procedure are resistant to DHT, allowing them to restore the hairline or fill in bald patches.

Hair transplant surgery can vary significantly in price based on the number of follicles required to fill in bald patches and the type of technique used. Our guide to hair transplant surgery goes into more detail.

Learn How to Style Your Hair While Balding

Finally, if you have visible hair loss you’d like to conceal, switching to a different hairstyle can often make it more difficult for others to notice.

While the classic combover is rarely a good choice for hiding balding, haircuts that keep the sides short can create the appearance of a thicker head of hair.

Our guide to looking good while you’re balding shares tips and techniques for finding the right hairstyle for your hairline and hair thickness. A hairstylist or barber can also offer personalized suggestions for hiding a bald spot.

At first glance, it can be tough to tell if you have a cowlick or are balding. This can result in confusion and panic when that old cowlick you’ve had your entire life looks the same as a bald patch in the mirror.

Here’s what to remember about a cowlick versus balding:

• While a cowlick can look similar to a bald patch, the two are very different. Cowlicks are something you’re born with, while male pattern baldness tends to get worse over time.

• Cowlicks can’t be ”fixed,” but you can hide them. If you have a cowlick that makes styling your hair a challenge, try using the tips above to gain control over your hair.

• Bald spots can be treated. If you’re starting to notice the early signs of male pattern hair loss, you may want to look into our range of evidence-based hair loss treatments.

Hair loss can be managed, and starting a treatment plan early is critical to success. Learn more about your options by taking part in an online hair loss consultation. You can also check out our full guide to preventing hair loss in men.